Presser Feet Tutorial

I have been stalking my Singer Featherweight + attachments in eager anticipation of their arrival - I imagine making little samples of everything with beautiful, decorative, written instructions to pass down to my future offspring (more ab that later) - but here is a really good video showing the application and use of assorted presser feet. Most of these are available (though slightly modified for the 'low shank attachment') for the Featherweight and the other videos in the playlist are also quite good. 

SO excited!

Sewing Tip(s) of the day:

1. If you lower your needle before lowering the presser foot, it keeps the needle from unthreading. This always happens to me.

2. When making pin-tucks, it is best to pin tuck the fabric before cutting out the pattern piece to ensure size perfection. For years I've been engaging in complicated math problems in an attempt to calculate how to allow for pin-tucks...

Amazing.

Also, this is a great blog with Singer accessories, info etc..

Completed Marie Muslin

It seems my lot in life to never - and I mean NEVER - have my pattern pieces line up. Seriously, I don't know what it is but  facings, waistbands, notches they just do not work for me and I know it has nothing to do with the cutting because I am an excellent and precise cutter. Anyway, I sewed the pleats both front and back, attached the waistband and BAM waistband is like 2 inches longer than the top of my skirt. Why??? I lined up the pleats exactly...Then there was some trouble with what was supposed to happen with the second set of waistbands and the facings. I just don't understand why the directions for these things are not more clear. Would it kill those pattern makers to put this stuff in plain english? Or just put a few more pictures on there for god sake! Beginner my ass.
Anyway, this is my muslin and I now understand the purpose of making a muslin is to get all the kinks out. In the end I just discarded the useless directions and tried to figure it out on my own. Here are the mistakes I made:

Ta Da! Muslin!

1. It is important to backstitch the ends of the pleats (especially on this kind of skirt where a lot of pressure is put on them). I back stitched the front but not the back and I regret not doing it to both.

2. I see now that the second waistband and facings need to be attached after the side seams are sewed up (and probably after the zipper is inserted. I attached them before then sewed it up right sides together - because I had no idea what the instructions were saying and nothing was lining up and I just needed it to make sense. It worked but was certainly not the way it was intended to be sewn.

3. Waistbands need interfacing. I knew this already but I am too poor for interfacing (or a zipper for that matter) so I did without.

4. Get a zipper. I am planning on putting in a lapped zipper (because I'm good at that kind) so I just sewed both sides up with the intension of adding the zipper...whenever.

The result: Wearable, though not currently because there is no way for me to get into it. I suppose I like this skirt but the back pleats (that I didn't backstitch) are already starting to come out, there are some spots on the fabric (which is really a flat sheet), and the waistband is not interfaced and therefore...weak & floppy.

Sigh...I suppose as far a muslin is concerned this could be considered a success. It will be wearable as soon as I zipper it, and I'm assuming the fit is okay (though I'm not sure yet). Also, I know what to do now, so when I make it again it will be easier - which was the point.

 But seriously, I have no answer as to why the facings, and waistbands don't work together. Why is EVERYTHING a different size? This is why I get frustrated and walk away from the sewing machine for months at a time. You can try and do everything right and sometimes shit just don't line up. On top of that, pattern instructions are the worst. The absolute worst!

It is a relief not to have made another Sorbetto top though. This is how I learn - trial and error. 

List of skills:

1. Facings.  
2. Zippers. 
3. Sleeves. 
4. Button holes. 
5. Bias Tape. 
6. Rolled Hem. 
7. Interfacing. 
8. Linings. 
9. Pattern Alteration.
10. Cording.
11. Scalloped Hem.
12. Lace Insert.
13. Fagoting.
14. Embroidered Details.
15. Pin Tucks.


While the list is diminishing it is simultaneously increasing! Admittedly I need to continue to practice these skills to perfection.


I was going to take a styled photo of my completed Sorbetto top, but it poured today so I thought I'd wait until I can have some sun to compliment it. I did however spend the afternoon pouring over sewing blogs. Colette, one of my favorites, shared this photo of an embroidered & scalloped hem. I am obsessed and will be attempting something like this tomorrow featuring Sorbetto top modification.

Sorbetto Muslin feat. Bias Tape

I have nearly completed my first top. I made the necessary corrections to the original pattern which included: lengthening, making larger arm holes and slimming the width - I also made the side seams french (Note. Trim loose threads BEFORE sewing up the second set of stitches when making french seams). I had to omit the center front pleat because the only fabric I had was a very narrow strip of silk/poly blend upholstery fabric that came from a terrible place in Kansas City called Contract Furnishings.
The final step is to create and sew my own bias tape. I decided to wing it and after a rather haphazard but successful go at the continuous bias tape method, I then went about trying to iron it into those little bias tape folds. Not as successful.
For one thing, my fabric just happens to be of the upholstery sort and is very thick and for another, I cannot find a ruler in the entire house...I did however have one interesting discovery; If you dampen the fabric before ironing it into bias tape folds (especially with a thick & unruly fabric like mine) it helps keep things neat and manageable. Damp, not soaking wet please. At the end of my 'wing it' attempt, I had a rather inconsistent piece of 100 inch unfolded bias tape. After ironing it, I could see the potential but didn't want to plunge ahead. Instead I went to the computer.
After several minutes of searching the internet, I discovered a...of course...printable pdf bias tape maker. I will be attempting that tomorrow.
Overall today has been successful. I altered my pattern, sewed a highly wearable muslin, and am now ready for the finishing touch. I still have concerns about my fabric as bias tape though. It's very thick and does not respond well to the iron. I do not think a contrasting fabric or color would compliment this top so until I either make perfect bias tape, or find the right color in a different fabric I am leaving this top unfinished I will not start on another project.

Here's a pretty terrible picture of my Muslin & I
The fabric's pretty fab, no?

Biased

I want to make this Sorbetto experience more fulfilling than the last time I attempted it and in order to do that I need a 1/2 inch Clover Bias Tape Maker. Sure pre made bias tape is convenient but the color options and fabric (cotton only) really cramp my luxurious style. After reading the 2 methods of creating bias tape, I have decided to attempt the Continuous Loop Method.

$7.00 Online

The idea of crossing one of the sewing techniques off my list is pretty exciting but lets not get ahead of ourselves. As of this moment, I've only printed the pdf. 


List of Sorbetto Alterations:
1. Larger Arm Holes
2. Longer Length
3. Slimmer Width
4. Matching Bias Tape

Things to (re)Learn

1. Facings. Never understood them, still don't. 
2. Zippers. Once upon a time I was a pro, now, not so much.
3. Sleeves. Would love to make some without puckers and yelling.
4. Button holes. Not easy. Never attempted.
5. Bias Tape. Would love to make my own.
6. Rolled Hem. If I could even get to the hem in a fine-fabric garment I'd consider it a success.
7. Interfacing. It would be great to actually use it correctly.
8. Linings. The key to a well executed garment - The only 1 I ever made was awkward.
9. Pattern Alteration. Deviate from the original Pattern? Crazy Awesome.


I am probably getting way ahead of myself with this, but I want to make a list of projects on the horizon.
1. Silk Pants
2. Chiffon Top
3. 70's Style Maxi Dress
4. Suit Jacket & Skirt
5. Button down shirt


The old me would be counting projects and sewing ability before the machine is even out of the closet. The new me says: "One thing at a time; lets see if you can alter those floral shorts that have been sitting in a box for 2 months and hem the curtains in the Spartan. If you're really feeling ambitious, go ahead and alter that mustard-yellow dress hanging in the closet that drowns you." Good thinking, must remain grounded.