That old shirt...

Remember that 'hideous floral sheer' fabric that I thrifted awhile back? I 'finished' a Sorbetto Top with it. 

Let me first explain that 'finished' is a matter of opinion in this case because while it is completed, it is not by any means finished. I chose to use gold lame pre-made bias tape combined with the FW binding foot to create a narrower edge. First time applying bias tape to a garment this way... I initially selected a short stitch length (like 20+/inch) and began slowly and timidly on an armhole at the back side seam. On the second armhole, I chose a longer stitch length (15-/inch) and sort of allowed the foot to do its thing. This went better but at the end I was faced with the daunting question of how to finish the bias binding/where to stop stitching. This is where things got a little haphazard. I won't go into detail but I will probably be redoing some of this soon, and I think the neckline needs to be redone in the old method because the thin fabric with the binding rolls TERRIBLY. 

Then I used the narrow hem foot to finish the edge. The narrow hem foot did an amazing job, but we ran into trouble at the french side seams. The bulk would not go into that tiny swirl on the foot. You know the swirl. I can only assume that when using the narrow hem foot, one must hem before sewing up side seams or sew the side seams by hand.

Anyway, this top - janky as it is - got good reviews from the Husband and Step Son who both independently complimented it so I'll keep it around for a bit.

Trouble in Featherweight Land

:::Sigh:::

It seems that perhaps I psyched myself up a bit too much over the new Featherweight. I noticed right away that the tension was off, so I proceeded to spend 8+ hours attempting to fix it (I'm still not so sure it's fixed) and it is skipping stitches. Yes, I got a new needle (Schmetz 80), and yes it is threaded and installed correctly. Now, as far as I can tell there are 2 reasons that this could be happening.

1. The timing is off. Shudder...

2. The Thread Take up Spring needs replacing (or possibly the entire tension assembly). I say this because the thread take up spring seems to be loose (more so than my mother-in-laws FW) and the last thread guide before the needle keeps unthreading right before the stitch skips. This could also account for the tension issues.

I am at the end of my Featherweight knowledge and therefor have decided to take her to the Singer Sewing Store for an estimate on repairs. Which is free.
I am hoping it will be a simple replacement/repair because I really don't want to return the machine. Luckily the person I bought it from has been very communicative and helpful and has offered to refund the cost of reasonable repairs.

I am trying not to let this get me down (I definitely shed some tears over it yesterday) because even though having it arrive and work spectacularly would have been...well, amazing...this experience will be a learning one (as I intend to hover over the repair man so I can find out exactly what he/she is doing) and I also intend to apply for a job at the Singer Store (explaining my love of vintage singers and the desire to not only become a better seamstress but to learn how to service both old and new machines seems like a good pitch for a potential employee).

I will report my findings...now, to google Featherweight timing.

Zigzagger & a Seam Guide

This stalked video convinced me that I cannot live without an Automatic Zigzagger...and assorted cams.

http://oldsingersewingmachineblog.com

I also need a seam guide. For the last few months I've wondered why Singer did not include notched guides on the plate, it's because you need a seam guide. Duh! Of course Singer has created something far superior to the notched plate...

Seam Guide

These items are all in listed on my ebay 'Watch List' for the day when I have $$.

Presser Feet Tutorial

I have been stalking my Singer Featherweight + attachments in eager anticipation of their arrival - I imagine making little samples of everything with beautiful, decorative, written instructions to pass down to my future offspring (more ab that later) - but here is a really good video showing the application and use of assorted presser feet. Most of these are available (though slightly modified for the 'low shank attachment') for the Featherweight and the other videos in the playlist are also quite good. 

SO excited!

Sewing Tip(s) of the day:

1. If you lower your needle before lowering the presser foot, it keeps the needle from unthreading. This always happens to me.

2. When making pin-tucks, it is best to pin tuck the fabric before cutting out the pattern piece to ensure size perfection. For years I've been engaging in complicated math problems in an attempt to calculate how to allow for pin-tucks...

Amazing.

Also, this is a great blog with Singer accessories, info etc..

Singer Featherweight 221-1

This is The Singer Featherweight 221-1 - Serial # AJ202041 Circa 1949 - that is soon to be in my possession (after 3-5 business days of transacting and probably about 3-5 business days in the care of the US postal service). It comes with all the attachments and I am anticipating some googling about how to use the buttonholer and ruffler!

This new, gorgeous, piece of hardware is an early birthday present and normally I would have asked for an expensive article of clothing but instead I am being given the gift that will produce thousands (hopefully) of expensive articles of clothing. Priceless!

Day I

It was day I of the new regimen and when I stood back to look at the two curtains I hemmed, as well as the floral shorts I altered - I was pleased. It wasn't easy but I spent the necessary time measuring, remeasuring, and measuring again just to make sure things were in place and in the end it paid off. Nice.

Singer Featherweight

My first order of business was to get acquainted with my mother-in-law's Singer 221-1 Featherweight sewing machine. As far as machines go, the Featherweight was a dream. It was simple to thread and operate with only the bare necessities in terms of features. It held none of the frustration associated with newer, plastic, machines and their array of useless, rattling, parts. It was easier to keep slippery polyester in place and the stitches were small, neat and aligned. Even the back-stitch feature - which inevitably leaves me with a gigantic knot under the fabric - was simple to execute and left not so much as a pinhole or loose thread. I have to get one of these for myself!
Next came the shorts. They were a practice run and as usual I dove right in and began sewing. Of course at the end of the first row of stitches I was left with something lopsided and awkward. I removed the stitches, ironed the fabric and began again with much better results. The shorts are now fitted to me exactly. Really nice.
Finally The Curtains Part I. I measured them, ironed them, measured them again, ironed them again and then measured once more just to be sure. Even my usual sway of stitches turned out neat and in line.
At the end of the day the lesson I learned was patience and to set reasonable goals for myself. Rather than assuming that I could knock out 4 panels in one sitting, I decided to do only 2. It took me as long (or longer) to sew the 2 as it would have taken the old me to sew 4 but in the end, the knowledge that it was done right was worth the extra time.
Tomorrow I will finish the other two curtain panels and if I feel up to it, will make a pattern for the other two windows. The pattern for the windows will be considerably more difficult than a simple hem - consisting of making a curtain rod slot with a ruffled top edge, side seams and hem. We'll see...