Modified Neckline

Here's the poly/sheer Sorbetto Top with inverted pleat and redone neckline. Much better - the top stitching leaves a little to be desired in terms of consistently straight lines, but Eunice sure did a great job! I actually like the slimmer neckline edge but the rolling is eliminated and the piece looks much more professional this way so I'm leaving it.

I feel good about semi-completing a project that I set aside awhile ago. Ideally I will redo at least one if not both armholes and modify the hem a little but for now, it's wearable and I like it. It reminds me a little of the 90's grunge look (probably because I'm wearing it with cutoff jean shorts and leggings) with a glam (gold lame) twist.

That old shirt...

Remember that 'hideous floral sheer' fabric that I thrifted awhile back? I 'finished' a Sorbetto Top with it. 

Let me first explain that 'finished' is a matter of opinion in this case because while it is completed, it is not by any means finished. I chose to use gold lame pre-made bias tape combined with the FW binding foot to create a narrower edge. First time applying bias tape to a garment this way... I initially selected a short stitch length (like 20+/inch) and began slowly and timidly on an armhole at the back side seam. On the second armhole, I chose a longer stitch length (15-/inch) and sort of allowed the foot to do its thing. This went better but at the end I was faced with the daunting question of how to finish the bias binding/where to stop stitching. This is where things got a little haphazard. I won't go into detail but I will probably be redoing some of this soon, and I think the neckline needs to be redone in the old method because the thin fabric with the binding rolls TERRIBLY. 

Then I used the narrow hem foot to finish the edge. The narrow hem foot did an amazing job, but we ran into trouble at the french side seams. The bulk would not go into that tiny swirl on the foot. You know the swirl. I can only assume that when using the narrow hem foot, one must hem before sewing up side seams or sew the side seams by hand.

Anyway, this top - janky as it is - got good reviews from the Husband and Step Son who both independently complimented it so I'll keep it around for a bit.

Employee Perks

Lets take some time to admire this luxurious fabric that I got from work today. $2 got me a fat yard! A-maze-ing huh?
I'm planning on making another Sorbetto Top with it. The next three days are dedicated to the pursuit of happiness via sewing.

Pillowcase Sorbetto @ The White House feat. Sister :)

The June Blouse

Hey remember that upholstery fabric that was my Sorbetto muslin? Yeah, the one with that sad and unsteady piece of handmade bias tape pinned to it? Thats the one.
If you could only see it now! It has sleeves, a scalloped hem a beautiful detachable/reversible collar and many (but sadly not all) of its raw edges are enclosed. The sleeves were unbelievably easy which made me feel really stupid when I think about how long I've had a weird aversion to them...
Anyway, it's nearly finished, I just have to determine and execute the neckline finishing and voila! Something completely different than the previous 5 Sorbettos.

I've christened this top The June Blouse in honor of my grandmother. I just couldn't get her out of my mind while I was sewing it and I think this is probably because she would have loved it. It looks like her - fancy and elegant - and I know that if I could have showed her, she would have just been over the moon about how talented she thinks I am. She was the best, and I miss her very much.

This top is dedicated to you Nana :)

Pictures later.

The month in Sorbetto Tops

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

No. 5*

The law of halves suggests that I make another scalloped hem don't you think?
But really, I think I have expired a bit on these tops. They're quick, easy and easily modified but I need another challenge. I'd like to make a skirt or dress ideally but I'll probably end up with whatever I can find for free. I've decided to abandon the Madeline Bloomers for now. I won't wear them and I don't have a buttonhole foot for the machine.

*After much deliberation No. 5 is officially a 'Jammie' top because the only other way it's wearable is under a cardigan. Boo failure.

Styled Sorbetto No. 5

Ehh..

Unfortunate
Shoulder
Puckering...

Completed Sorbetto No. 5

Um...so I modified the Sorbetto pattern and well...I think I modified too much because the result is a little...off. First, I raised the neckline and extended the darts. I modified further by using 1" (instead of the customary 1/2") bias tape around the neckline and 1/4" around the armholes.
The trouble began when my darts did not line up to the top of the fabric. I had to eyeball them slightly off center. The 1" bias tape did not go as planned and stands up slightly with odd bunching/gaping in the back sort of like a strangle-collar gone terribly wrong. The larger neck tape also seemed to put stress on the armholes and even though I used 1/4" bias tape for them they still sort of flair up at the top. I think I may have needed to clip some curves before topstitching*. I am not ecstatic about the finished garment. It's just not that great and very...rectangular. I think it's wearable but more like work-out-in-the-garden/run-around-with-the-kids wearable. The kind of thing you wear when you expect to get dirty, sweaty and messed up. I am going to style it anyway just so it can be seen at its full potential.

Sorbetto No. 5
with
Modifications

* Despite some disappointing results, the upside to this project is that my topstitching is exceptional. I used contrasting navy thread to double topstitch the hem of the blouse as well as a single topstitch around the armholes. It looks very nice and even - which isn't surprising considering how many of these I have made in the last month.

Another Pillowcase Top

I am using another pillowcase to test my newest pattern modification to the Sorbetto Top. Last week when I was getting ready, I accidentally put one of my completed tops on backwards. Obviously it looked pretty wrong, but what struck my fancy was how nice the raised neckline looked. Almost a boatneck. So today I made another pattern with the neck darts meeting at a single central point and radiating out/downwards from a...raised neckline. I did not intend to sew much today but the weather is grey and rainy and I am cooped up indoors so it looks like another top is in the works. Pictures to follow if these mods are successful.

Here is the pillowcase fabric

Completed Sorbetto No. 4

This is the 4th Sorbetto top that I have finished. It is made with a 'linen-look' poly/cotton blend pillowcase that is completely liquid resistant - I know this because I spilled iced tea on it and the moisture beaded on the surface of the fabric then fell off without so much as a damp spot left behind. Odd but nice under the circumstance.

Anyway, since this is a repurposed pillowcase I initially left the hem as added length but it was too tight in the hips and kept bunching in the back - which is NOT a flattering look at all! - so I turned up the premade hem and then hand hemmed it so that all raw the edges are encased. I love it.

I wore it to work today and people were amazed that I not only made it, but made it out of a pillow case. It was complimented without my initiation and things like 'How did you do that?' and 'That is gorgeous!!' were uttered by coworkers and strangers alike when I revealed that it was handmade and repurposed. Here are the pics ( check out that glamorous 1950's 'Truly Regal' handmade pearl collar available here at Couture Panache ) obviously it was kind of a long day..

Pillowcase Sorbetto 

Truly Regal Pearl Collar

Sorbetto No 5

I am embarking on Sorbetto No. 5 (the 4th being that unfinished poly/sheer) this morning after a much needed coffee and cigarette. I modified the pattern, cut out the fabric AND cut my bias tape strips last night before bed so I am anticipating it will take me very little time to construct the blouse. I decided to start with that neutral/brown floral pillow case. I may end up Tea or Coffee dying the entire thing in the future but for now, just another Sorbetto. Instead of using the 10" by 10" square method for bias tape (there wasn't much left) I used the scraps to create bias strips (which I think I pretty accurately eyeballed) because I just think that fabric will look far better with matching rather than contrasting bias tape.

I realized that with all these cotton and linen floral Sorbetto Tops around I have unwittingly created A Proper Southern Ladies Wardrobe. Living briefly in the midwest brought TONS of new, beautiful clothes but now that I am back where I belong (in the sticky, humid south) I need different fabrics (cotton, linen & silk) rather than sheer poly blends and jersey knits. Even the little genteel florals play the part and look stunning with a set of pearls; going effortlessly from garden party to baptism without skipping a beat. Plus the fabrics wick moisture away from the body while the cut allows that nice Savannah breeze to cool me off. I love it. In fact, I'm obsessed with this idea right now. Lawdy I declare I had to make 4 before I realized it.

Here's a blog I just discovered that I like.

Southern Lady Blog: http://southernwoman.wordpress.com/

Bragging - I mean Blogging - about cheap finds

It turns out that $3 gets you pretty far in the thrift fabric/pillowcase world. I got 2 amazing floral pillow cases, a flat full sheet, some actual fabric, a 80's sewing book (with pattern included), an embroidery hoop, and 4 nautical button covers all for $3.75. I think it goes without saying that everything is in the wash.
Speaking of wash, I inspected My Three Sorbetto's which were drying in the fresh air and here's what I noticed. Two of the three tops blouses have small areas on the inside where I had missed the bias tape the first time around. Not a big deal, only a centimeter or less length, but a problem none the less. I think the reason for this is that by the time I am sewing that last armhole I am getting anxious to finish, and subsequently get careless. I am meticulous with the topstitching because it's visible but these little mistakes seem to happen pre-topstitch. I will keep an eye on that in the future and possibly iron my bias tape then take a break between making the tape and sewing it to the blouse. Got to stay fresh and on top of things...

One of the pillowcases I bought today has a beautiful neutral-brown floral print on it and I think it would be amazing to tea or coffee dye it before creating the blouse. A million years ago I took a fabric dying class where we learned about natural vs. synthetic dyes. Tea and coffee dying is remarkably easy and there's no reason NOT to try it. Talk about a lovely vintage-y effect!

Clearly I'm itching to bead something (as is evident in my last post) hence the embroidery hoop. 5 cents btw. Jealous?

1.5 yds - Going to be bias tape

Pillow Case

Pillow Case

Flat Sheet

Button Covers - I have 2 of each

Inspiration: Sorbetto Mods

I typed in 'Vintage Top' into Etsy.com and some really nice images came up. I am eagerly anticipating my pillowcases (in T-minus 1 hour) and I think these will be the inspiration for the future Sorbetto's. I just cannot stop making these tops!


Speaking of Tops Blouses, here's why I like them so much. You can never really have too many. It's easy to wear the same pair of jeans or pants but a different top can really change the entire look. I am on a secret mission to never wear the same outfit to work (which I go to twice a week) twice. My coworkers (well, just one or two of them) already think I'm snobby and overdressed so why not play into that and wear fabulous things I've made every time I show up.

Anyway, on to the vintage blouses:

Like those beads and sleeves!

Nice Pleat.

So beaded! Love.

These are from Anthro.

Also from Anthro.

Finally, I am washing My Three Sorbetto's today. They are going in the wash on the cold/cold handwash/delicate cycle. I am going to hang them outside to dry so they'll smell wonderful. As a general rule I don't wash my clothing very often (because it diminishes the integrity of the cloth over time) because I rarely sweat or get dirty. Sometimes with sewing projects though, a good wash helps the components mesh. Does that make sense?

Styled Sorbetto No. 2

Today I took my second top (the one I wasn't crazy about) for a spin around downtown Savannah with my mom. It saw the Telfair museum, some great shops and a delicious lunch at a french bakery. It received many compliments during the day and my mom has even commissioned one for herself. We planned to pick out her fabric today but both stores were closed (darn!)

Museum

Completed Sorbetto No. 3

The Styled (Pillowcase) Sorbetto No 3.
Perfect for a garden grill-out or
cordials at 5.

This is by far my favorite Sorbetto. When I make my next linen pillowcase top, I will slim the width a little more.

Sewing Schedule

Since I am currently working part-time, there has been ample opportunity for sewing. I have fallen into quite the routine and it usually goes a little something like this:

7AM: Wake up.
7:15: Coffee!
7:30: Pattern alteration/modification/cutting.
8:00: Dr Katz/Fabric cutting.
8:30: Dr Katz/Sew!!! - More Coffee!
10:00: Chat with Sister.
12PM: Lunch Break
1:00: Finishing.
1:30: Clean up.

I find this routine very relaxing and since it's just me and Truffles the dog here, there is plenty of time to sit down, figure things out, and sew them up correctly. I do look forward to the day that I join the full-time work force, but at the moment I am having some very therapeutic alone-time with the Featherweight 221-1.

My vintage pillow case top turned out great! I rushed a little at the bias tape making phase of the construction and I was concerned that it would be uneven - and it is - but it isn't noticeable and the finished result is lovely! I wore it at a family grill-out last night and it fit the part perfectly. Overall, love it!
There will be one small modification though, I turned the hem up 1/4' then stitched, then turned it up 1/4' and stitched again to enclose the raw edge. I think a double row of top stitching is in order to keep the hem nice and flat since I stitched very close to the edge.

I am not sewing today - well, that's not true I am going to topstitch my pillow case top - because I think it's important not to get burned out (also, there are chores to be done). I took some time to think about it this morning and my next logical step is to complete yet another top using a more difficult fabric. I have a hideous thrifted floral polyester/sheer fabric that is just asking for an inverted pleat and since I'm pretty comfortable with cotton Sorbetto Tops at this point the poly/sheer has taken it's place at the top of the list. I doubt I will EVER wear this one (except for photo taking) because the print is a mid-life-crisis but I am occasionally surprised by a drab fabric's transformation into a stunning garment so hopefully this will be one of those instances. Regardless it's all about the learning!

I have been putting off the Madeline Bloomers because I don't currently have any tape to assemble the pattern, and because the bloomers are less wearable, and because - lets face it - I'm all about some tops right now and because I am uncertain about the button holes.... I'm anticipating construction of a muslin sometime next week.

Styled Sorbetto No. 2

Wish I could show the whole
outfit but here's the
Top...

This top has grown on me. I wore it to work (where it received compliments from total strangers) and it was extremely comfortable and light in this humid Savannah weather. I still wish the print was a little more dynamic, but with a pair of dark wash skinnies, a funky necklace and my platform Seychelles, it all worked out.

My 'Point Of No Return' Seychelles

The 'Betty Draper' Sorbetto (Sorbetto No. 1)

The sun finally came out so here is the styled Sorbetto Top inspired by Betty Draper.

I wish I had a better camera!

Completed Sorbetto No. 2

I completed a second Sorbetto Top today with a few modifications to the pattern. First, I used the 'Slash and Spread'* method I learned in college to move the side dart to the neck. That side dart was starting to get a little boring. I also raised the neckline in the back and finally made a highly decorative scalloped hem in the front. I even went as far as to make a little vintage-y bow for the neck with the extra bias tape that I made. Yep, made my own bias tape again!!! Although I like the details of this top with the darts and the hem and the bow I really don't like the print. Close up it's a navy and white floral with little poppy-red dots of color but from afar it just gets lost and reminds me of an old ladies night gown - or something they would make you wear in the hospital.

Dart & Bow

Scalloped Hem

Fabric Close Up

Overall, the modifications turned out great and the neck darts look fantastic. They add to the vertical lines in the blouse and are very slimming. I just wish I liked the fabric more. It's difficult to be excited about the finished product when the fabric is so lack-luster. Luckily it was 40 cents, thrifted. I am taking my new top for a spin to the grocery store to see if it grows on me.

Tomorrow I cut out the Madeline Bloomers.

*I haven't been able to find a good tutorial for the 'Slash & Spread' method so I will post a little how-to soon. It's so easy!

Also: That first top I made with the upholstery fabric is still left unfinished. I've been considering my options and have decided to just buy some pre-made bias tape and finish the damn thing. Maybe a navy blue?

List of skills:

1. Facings.  
2. Zippers. 
3. Sleeves. 
4. Button holes. 
5. Bias Tape. 
6. Rolled Hem. 
7. Interfacing. 
8. Linings. 
9. Pattern Alteration.
10. Cording.
11. Scalloped Hem.
12. Lace Insert.
13. Fagoting.
14. Embroidered Details.
15. Pin Tucks.


While the list is diminishing it is simultaneously increasing! Admittedly I need to continue to practice these skills to perfection.


I was going to take a styled photo of my completed Sorbetto top, but it poured today so I thought I'd wait until I can have some sun to compliment it. I did however spend the afternoon pouring over sewing blogs. Colette, one of my favorites, shared this photo of an embroidered & scalloped hem. I am obsessed and will be attempting something like this tomorrow featuring Sorbetto top modification.