That old shirt...

Remember that 'hideous floral sheer' fabric that I thrifted awhile back? I 'finished' a Sorbetto Top with it. 

Let me first explain that 'finished' is a matter of opinion in this case because while it is completed, it is not by any means finished. I chose to use gold lame pre-made bias tape combined with the FW binding foot to create a narrower edge. First time applying bias tape to a garment this way... I initially selected a short stitch length (like 20+/inch) and began slowly and timidly on an armhole at the back side seam. On the second armhole, I chose a longer stitch length (15-/inch) and sort of allowed the foot to do its thing. This went better but at the end I was faced with the daunting question of how to finish the bias binding/where to stop stitching. This is where things got a little haphazard. I won't go into detail but I will probably be redoing some of this soon, and I think the neckline needs to be redone in the old method because the thin fabric with the binding rolls TERRIBLY. 

Then I used the narrow hem foot to finish the edge. The narrow hem foot did an amazing job, but we ran into trouble at the french side seams. The bulk would not go into that tiny swirl on the foot. You know the swirl. I can only assume that when using the narrow hem foot, one must hem before sewing up side seams or sew the side seams by hand.

Anyway, this top - janky as it is - got good reviews from the Husband and Step Son who both independently complimented it so I'll keep it around for a bit.

Today's goal:

I am determined to sew today. Even though there are plenty of other things that need doing, Eunice and I will create!
Now, which bias tape should I use?

Completed Sorbetto No. 5

Um...so I modified the Sorbetto pattern and well...I think I modified too much because the result is a little...off. First, I raised the neckline and extended the darts. I modified further by using 1" (instead of the customary 1/2") bias tape around the neckline and 1/4" around the armholes.
The trouble began when my darts did not line up to the top of the fabric. I had to eyeball them slightly off center. The 1" bias tape did not go as planned and stands up slightly with odd bunching/gaping in the back sort of like a strangle-collar gone terribly wrong. The larger neck tape also seemed to put stress on the armholes and even though I used 1/4" bias tape for them they still sort of flair up at the top. I think I may have needed to clip some curves before topstitching*. I am not ecstatic about the finished garment. It's just not that great and very...rectangular. I think it's wearable but more like work-out-in-the-garden/run-around-with-the-kids wearable. The kind of thing you wear when you expect to get dirty, sweaty and messed up. I am going to style it anyway just so it can be seen at its full potential.

Sorbetto No. 5
with
Modifications

* Despite some disappointing results, the upside to this project is that my topstitching is exceptional. I used contrasting navy thread to double topstitch the hem of the blouse as well as a single topstitch around the armholes. It looks very nice and even - which isn't surprising considering how many of these I have made in the last month.

Completed Sorbetto No. 2

I completed a second Sorbetto Top today with a few modifications to the pattern. First, I used the 'Slash and Spread'* method I learned in college to move the side dart to the neck. That side dart was starting to get a little boring. I also raised the neckline in the back and finally made a highly decorative scalloped hem in the front. I even went as far as to make a little vintage-y bow for the neck with the extra bias tape that I made. Yep, made my own bias tape again!!! Although I like the details of this top with the darts and the hem and the bow I really don't like the print. Close up it's a navy and white floral with little poppy-red dots of color but from afar it just gets lost and reminds me of an old ladies night gown - or something they would make you wear in the hospital.

Dart & Bow

Scalloped Hem

Fabric Close Up

Overall, the modifications turned out great and the neck darts look fantastic. They add to the vertical lines in the blouse and are very slimming. I just wish I liked the fabric more. It's difficult to be excited about the finished product when the fabric is so lack-luster. Luckily it was 40 cents, thrifted. I am taking my new top for a spin to the grocery store to see if it grows on me.

Tomorrow I cut out the Madeline Bloomers.

*I haven't been able to find a good tutorial for the 'Slash & Spread' method so I will post a little how-to soon. It's so easy!

Also: That first top I made with the upholstery fabric is still left unfinished. I've been considering my options and have decided to just buy some pre-made bias tape and finish the damn thing. Maybe a navy blue?

Sorbetto No. 1

Today I made an entire Sorbetto top with some surprisingly nice grandma/floral cotton. I made my first scalloped hem, bias tape, sewed it all and finished everything in a matter of hours. I even went as far as to sit down and hand hem the bottom. The scallops were a fairly hassle-free success as was the concept of using cotton to make my own bias tape. There are a few small imperfections but overall I am able to wear this top without the fear of someone saying 'uh....did you...make that?' - Not in a good way.

It has been an uncommon sewing success. I learned and executed a scalloped hem and I made and used my own bias tape without the aid of any kind of bias-tape-maker. I am one tiny step closer to becoming an excellent seamstress.

Here's what I learned:

1. Iron on both sides. This might be self explanatory for some, but when you're used to rushing everything and cutting corners it's a revelation. Who knew that taking the time to iron things well would make such a difference?

2. Cotton is the best fabric for beginning a project. All muslins will be made from cotton from now on. It's stable, not ravel-y, and responds well to ironing.

3. It's all about confidence. If you have to forge your own path, make sure you at least take the time to do it right.


This is kind of a big moment for me. I cannot really think of another time that I have ever completed a sewing project and actually felt okay about wearing the finished garment. At 26 yrs old I am finally making my own clothes. Awesome!

Here is a preview of the finished top.
Look how nicely those arm holes and neckline
are laying with the bias tape.
I made that.

Here are a few sewing tools that I don't need, but would make my life easier:

1) Clear Ruler

2) Interfacing

3) Sharp Pinking Shears (I found an extremely dull pair that are basically useless)

4) Tailor Chalk

5) White thread

What's frustrating is that 4 out of 5 of those items are in Kansas City until the end of the month.

Tomorrow I'm making another :)

Today I...

...Made my own bias tape without the aid of the DIY bias tape maker (which turned out to be useless when making 1/2" bias tape with upholstery fabric). It was my second attempt and though it took forever it went pretty well (I had to take numerous smoke breaks). I attached the small amount I was able to make to the left armhole of my blouse and was pretty impressed with the polished result. I think if I were to do it over, I would have 1) used different fabric or 2) made my bias tape a little wider despite the pattern suggestion of 1/2". There were a few wavy places (though surprisingly less than I imagined) and several places where the thread failed to catch the fabric underneath, but overall I am pleased. Making bias tape is not so hard and the result is very panache.
I found fabric, thrifted awhile ago, tucked away and have decided to make round II top with a scalloped hem. As for round I top, I have decided to rip out the bias tape I made today (even though it looks good it doesn't look that good good enough) and add sleeves or possibly make facings (Whatever those are..). With that fabric weight, sleeves will make sense. A collar might also make sense, but we'll see.

...Discovered Fabric.com's free downloadable patterns. I downloaded about 5 of them. Who says sewing has to be expensive? So far I've managed to do quite a bit without spending money.

...Found fabric that is completely not my first, second or even third choice in pattern or color but is available, and cotton, and easy to work with. These will be, of course, for the purpose of learning, and if I am able to wear something it's a bonus.

As you can see, pre-topstitch, pre-iron, bias tape attached with pins.
Not horrible...

On an unrelated, but somewhat related note, I've been feeling a british - or rather English Countryside - influence coming on strong again.

Sorbetto Muslin feat. Bias Tape

I have nearly completed my first top. I made the necessary corrections to the original pattern which included: lengthening, making larger arm holes and slimming the width - I also made the side seams french (Note. Trim loose threads BEFORE sewing up the second set of stitches when making french seams). I had to omit the center front pleat because the only fabric I had was a very narrow strip of silk/poly blend upholstery fabric that came from a terrible place in Kansas City called Contract Furnishings.
The final step is to create and sew my own bias tape. I decided to wing it and after a rather haphazard but successful go at the continuous bias tape method, I then went about trying to iron it into those little bias tape folds. Not as successful.
For one thing, my fabric just happens to be of the upholstery sort and is very thick and for another, I cannot find a ruler in the entire house...I did however have one interesting discovery; If you dampen the fabric before ironing it into bias tape folds (especially with a thick & unruly fabric like mine) it helps keep things neat and manageable. Damp, not soaking wet please. At the end of my 'wing it' attempt, I had a rather inconsistent piece of 100 inch unfolded bias tape. After ironing it, I could see the potential but didn't want to plunge ahead. Instead I went to the computer.
After several minutes of searching the internet, I discovered a...of course...printable pdf bias tape maker. I will be attempting that tomorrow.
Overall today has been successful. I altered my pattern, sewed a highly wearable muslin, and am now ready for the finishing touch. I still have concerns about my fabric as bias tape though. It's very thick and does not respond well to the iron. I do not think a contrasting fabric or color would compliment this top so until I either make perfect bias tape, or find the right color in a different fabric I am leaving this top unfinished I will not start on another project.

Here's a pretty terrible picture of my Muslin & I
The fabric's pretty fab, no?

Biased

I want to make this Sorbetto experience more fulfilling than the last time I attempted it and in order to do that I need a 1/2 inch Clover Bias Tape Maker. Sure pre made bias tape is convenient but the color options and fabric (cotton only) really cramp my luxurious style. After reading the 2 methods of creating bias tape, I have decided to attempt the Continuous Loop Method.

$7.00 Online

The idea of crossing one of the sewing techniques off my list is pretty exciting but lets not get ahead of ourselves. As of this moment, I've only printed the pdf. 


List of Sorbetto Alterations:
1. Larger Arm Holes
2. Longer Length
3. Slimmer Width
4. Matching Bias Tape