Sorbetto No. 1

Today I made an entire Sorbetto top with some surprisingly nice grandma/floral cotton. I made my first scalloped hem, bias tape, sewed it all and finished everything in a matter of hours. I even went as far as to sit down and hand hem the bottom. The scallops were a fairly hassle-free success as was the concept of using cotton to make my own bias tape. There are a few small imperfections but overall I am able to wear this top without the fear of someone saying 'uh....did you...make that?' - Not in a good way.

It has been an uncommon sewing success. I learned and executed a scalloped hem and I made and used my own bias tape without the aid of any kind of bias-tape-maker. I am one tiny step closer to becoming an excellent seamstress.

Here's what I learned:

1. Iron on both sides. This might be self explanatory for some, but when you're used to rushing everything and cutting corners it's a revelation. Who knew that taking the time to iron things well would make such a difference?

2. Cotton is the best fabric for beginning a project. All muslins will be made from cotton from now on. It's stable, not ravel-y, and responds well to ironing.

3. It's all about confidence. If you have to forge your own path, make sure you at least take the time to do it right.


This is kind of a big moment for me. I cannot really think of another time that I have ever completed a sewing project and actually felt okay about wearing the finished garment. At 26 yrs old I am finally making my own clothes. Awesome!

Here is a preview of the finished top.
Look how nicely those arm holes and neckline
are laying with the bias tape.
I made that.

Here are a few sewing tools that I don't need, but would make my life easier:

1) Clear Ruler

2) Interfacing

3) Sharp Pinking Shears (I found an extremely dull pair that are basically useless)

4) Tailor Chalk

5) White thread

What's frustrating is that 4 out of 5 of those items are in Kansas City until the end of the month.

Tomorrow I'm making another :)

Biased

I want to make this Sorbetto experience more fulfilling than the last time I attempted it and in order to do that I need a 1/2 inch Clover Bias Tape Maker. Sure pre made bias tape is convenient but the color options and fabric (cotton only) really cramp my luxurious style. After reading the 2 methods of creating bias tape, I have decided to attempt the Continuous Loop Method.

$7.00 Online

The idea of crossing one of the sewing techniques off my list is pretty exciting but lets not get ahead of ourselves. As of this moment, I've only printed the pdf. 


List of Sorbetto Alterations:
1. Larger Arm Holes
2. Longer Length
3. Slimmer Width
4. Matching Bias Tape

Stitch&Bitch

Money is tight right now and I am feeling discouraged. I've just perused some of my favorite sewing blogs and it seems that the best seamstresses have the most enviable resources. Where do they find the money/time?
As a sort of consolation, I printed the Colette Patterns Sorbetto Top and Madeline Bloomers. $Free.99.
I have to frequently remind myself that the purpose of this blog/sewing-experience is to become an excellent seamstress and not to create my ideal wardrobe. Sigh...the 1950's floral day dresses and 70's 'strangle collars' will have to wait.
I like the Sorbetto top quite a bit and have attempted to make it before but the fit isn't quite right on my body type. The bloomers, though lovely, are not my style at all.
Since financially I have to work with what I have, I've decided to use the ill-fitted Sorbetto as an exercise in pattern alteration and fit. The bloomers will be an exercise in elasticity, buttonholing and vintage french lingerie. I fully expect that the first several bloomer attempts will leave something to be desired. Luckily, the new and improved seamstress will be making a muslin or 2 before graduating to silk and lace.
There is no shortage of sewing work to be done at the moment. I am still in the middle of the Spartan Curtain Project but curtains, though good practice, are so damn boring. No matter how meticulous I am with the measurements and stitches, you just cannot wear them.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Here is some bloomer inspiration. I particularly like Figure 2 white silk dupioni and lace.

Voice of Reason

I have been evaluating my reasons for doggedly returning to sewing time and time again and have come to a few conclusions which I would like to share.

1. I love clothing. It's no secret and there would be nothing more empowering than to be able to create the images that I see every night when I close my eyes. Some people fantasize about money, power, prestige; I fantasize about the perfect outfit for any & every occasion.
2. It is a skill. To be able to to put an outfit together is not. Not everyone who has an eye for fashion can sew and those who can sew beautifully do not always have an eye. I want both. I have never questioned my own taste in fabric, silhouette, style and color because they have never failed me. It is time to take my eye for fashion to another level; a level achieved by few.
3. Business. Fashion is my business and how can I truly understand the product without first understanding the construction. It is a simple concept but a difficult journey to understanding.


For this blog.
I spend a great deal of time perusing other sewing blogs; ogling over their amazing images all neatly arranged in the most artistic way. What I realize now is that without the skill, the artistic photographs mean nothing. I hope to one day have artsy little images accompanying all of my posts, and a large number of followers encouraging and complimenting my work. Until then, this is simply a log of my journey to single-handedly reteach myself the basics. One day I will look back from beginning to end and marvel at how far I've come. Today I look back at where I was when I created this blog - Self satisfied, Inspired, Ambitious and Naive. Forcing something that had not yet had the time (or the effort taken) to come into fruition. I wanted the artsy pictures, and the followers - assuming that it was all within reach. Yet somewhere in the back of my mind I knew that it was not to be. I am confident in a lot of things but not my actual ability to sew...how odd.
But what better way to begin a journey than with literally nothing but the intent - no the promise - to learn everything.
There will be mistakes, frustrations, set-backs and failures. This is for no one but myself and the lone seamstress who dreams in vibrant fabrics and wishes for the skill or the time or the money or the patience to make her vision a reality.

Things to (re)Learn

1. Facings. Never understood them, still don't. 
2. Zippers. Once upon a time I was a pro, now, not so much.
3. Sleeves. Would love to make some without puckers and yelling.
4. Button holes. Not easy. Never attempted.
5. Bias Tape. Would love to make my own.
6. Rolled Hem. If I could even get to the hem in a fine-fabric garment I'd consider it a success.
7. Interfacing. It would be great to actually use it correctly.
8. Linings. The key to a well executed garment - The only 1 I ever made was awkward.
9. Pattern Alteration. Deviate from the original Pattern? Crazy Awesome.


I am probably getting way ahead of myself with this, but I want to make a list of projects on the horizon.
1. Silk Pants
2. Chiffon Top
3. 70's Style Maxi Dress
4. Suit Jacket & Skirt
5. Button down shirt


The old me would be counting projects and sewing ability before the machine is even out of the closet. The new me says: "One thing at a time; lets see if you can alter those floral shorts that have been sitting in a box for 2 months and hem the curtains in the Spartan. If you're really feeling ambitious, go ahead and alter that mustard-yellow dress hanging in the closet that drowns you." Good thinking, must remain grounded.

ReIntroduction

This blog is undergoing a much needed makeover as are my sewing habits.

It seems that no matter how frustrated I get with my sewing projects, after weeks/months/years of neglect I always return to the sewing machine with renewed determination. So, right on schedule, here I am with a new promise that I will not bite off more than I can chew with the first project and that I WILL make a muslin.
Admittedly I am a reckless and impatient seamstress who is frequently overly ambitious with fabric-choice and pattern difficulty. I do not follow the instructions, I cut corners and usually end up with a garment ill-fitted and unwearable. It has taken me years to admit this.
The fact that I always return to it gives me hope that I can relearn everything I thought I knew about sewing and truly teach myself to be the seamstress that I want to (and know I can) be.

So here are my self-imposed rules to sewing. I will follow these rules to the letter because I know that they will serve me well if I stick with them (this time).

1. Begin as a Beginner. I will use beginner patterns & beginner fabrics. No exceptions.
2. Read the Instructions. I will open the pattern instructions and follow them. I will not be afraid or embarrassed to ask for help in deciphering them.
3. Make a Muslin. There is no time-limit and I will make a muslin and fit it. Yes. I will. Practice makes Perfect.
4. Iron, Clip, Baste, Interface. I will not sacrifice the ironing, clipping, basting or interfacing process in the interest of time or impatience.
5. Sew with Precision. If it's not right, take it out and re-do it. No, it won't be fine if I just trudge along.


This post has been an honest assessment of my sewing skills. It has taken me a long time to admit that I am both out of practice and really, was never very good to begin with. I will not be overwhelmed by the sewing machine and it's seemingly endless number of little issues that inevitably do me in. I will not be afraid of the pattern instructions and I will take my time.

Starting one week from today, I begin my re-introduction to sewing. For once I have all the time in the world to become a member of the sewing-class and I think I am ready.

My first endeavor is a pair of tie-waisted pajama pants (Simplicity Learn To Sew #2290). In the past I would skip straight to silk (which of course is the goal via Cavalli's Palm Silk Pants) but the new, more humble me, will begin with a simple easy to sew cotton as a muslin and go from there.